By the time Mang Zhong (芒种, mángzhòng) arrives in early June, Shanghai is already behaving like full-on summer, even if the calendar is still catching up.

Mang Zhong, commonly translated as "Grain in Ear," is the ninth of the 24 solar terms and the third of summer. The name refers to grains like wheat and barley that are ready for harvest, while crops like rice are being planted at the same time. Traditionally, this was one of the busiest and most physically demanding moments of the agricultural calendar.

What It Feels Like Right Now

Mang Zhong typically falls between June 5 and 7 (this year, on the fifth). For Shanghai and the wider Yangtze River Delta, it also marks the start of plum rains (梅雨, méiyǔ) – named for the green plums ripening at the same time. What follows is weeks of overcast skies and persistent humidity.

Rainstorms arrive suddenly and leave just as quickly. The city smells faintly of wet leaves, river water, and overripe fruit. The plane trees are at maximum leaf density now. Morning walks are still manageable before 9am or so. This is also the time of year when restaurants and malls start to get aggro with their air conditioning.

Things People Do (Or Used to Do) During This Term

Eating and arguing about zongzi: This year, Mang Zhong overlaps with the Dragon Boat Festival. Zongzi (粽子, zòngzi), parcels of sticky rice wrapped in bamboo leaves, are the defining food of the holiday. Whether they should be savory (e.g., salted egg yolk and pork belly) or sweet (e.g., red bean paste) remains a regional debate with strong opinions on both sides and no resolution in sight.

Hanging mugwort and fragrant sachets: Bundles of mugwort and calamus are hung near doorways, while fragrant herbal sachets appear in markets, usually in brightly colored embroidered pouches. Both traditions were believed to ward off illness and bad luck during the dampest part of the year. As a bonus, they also help keep insects away.

Preserving green plums: Green plums (青梅, qīngméi) peak around now, appearing in baskets at wet markets before being turned into pickled and candied plums, syrups, or homemade plum wine. The fruit is intensely tart when fresh, which is why preserving it became so popular.

What's In Season Right Now

As the Mangzhong arrives, hydrangeas across Shanghai's parks and streets burst into full bloom. Clusters of blue, pink, purple and other vibrant blossoms weave together into a romantic sea of flowers, capturing the charm of early summer.

Bayberries (杨梅, yángméi) are still around, while lychees are arriving in force. Watermelons are hitting their stride. Green plums are definitely worth seeking out before the season moves on.

As for vegetables, cold smashed cucumber salads are on nearly every restaurant menu right now and deserve to be. Bitter melon (苦瓜, kǔguā) is the one worth paying attention to if you've been avoiding it: cool in nature, hydrating, and, in a quick stir-fry with egg and sesame oil, considerably less confrontational than its reputation suggests.

Traditional Chinese medicine has long recommended bitter foods during this stage of summer. Whether or not you subscribe to the theory, the timing happens to coincide with when they taste best.