October 21, 2025 | Follow us
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A Neighborhood Through the Eyes of an Art Insider

For Italian-born Enrico Polato, home and work have long been intertwined with the streets around Anfu Road and Wukang Road. After more than two decades in China, first in Beijing and then Shanghai, he opened Capsule in 2016, a contemporary art gallery tucked into a lane just a short walk from home. Over the years, he has watched the neighborhood evolve from a quieter residential area into one of Shanghai's most sought-after destinations, where independent art spaces sit alongside cafés, restaurants and ever-changing retail concepts. Yet amid the constant reinvention, it is the familiar places that matter most to him – the cafés, shops and neighborhood institutions that have stood the test of time. Enrico shares his personal guide to the galleries, eateries and everyday discoveries that make this corner of Shanghai feel like home.

A Neighborhood Through the Eyes of an Art Insider
Dong Jun

Over the years, Enrico has watched the neighborhood evolve from a quieter residential area into one of Shanghai's most sought-after destinations.

CNS: Could you introduce the neighborhood you live in?

I live around Anfu Road and Wukang Road, and I've been in this neighborhood for about 12 years. When I first moved here, Anfu Road was much quieter than it is today. In recent years, it has become a much faster-changing place, with brands opening temporary or seasonal stores that may only last a few months.

I enjoy seeing new things emerge and discovering new places, but after living here for so long, I've also grown increasingly attached to the places that have stayed.

A Neighborhood Through the Eyes of an Art Insider
Dong Jun

In recent years, Anfu Road has become a much faster-changing place, with brands opening temporary or seasonal stores that may only last a few months.

CNS: What's the best thing about living in this neighborhood?

For me, it's the sense of familiarity. I'm very much a creature of habit, so I like walking into the same café, restaurant or shop and recognizing the people who work there. Those everyday routines are what gradually make a neighborhood feel like home.

Perhaps because Anfu Road changes so quickly now, I've become even more attached to places that have been here for years. As a business owner myself, I also find something reassuring about seeing them endure while so much around them changes. I tend to think that if a place has remained part of the neighborhood for a long time, there must be a reason: it's doing something right, and people keep coming back.

So my recommendations may not always be the newest or most undiscovered places. They're the places I genuinely return to and that have become part of my life here – like Gaudi Barber Shop (80 Wuyuan Rd 五原路80号).

A Neighborhood Through the Eyes of an Art Insider
Dong Jun

Gaudi Barber Shop has become part of Enrico's life in the neighborhood.

CNS: What attractions here should be missed?

The area has a great concentration of young contemporary art galleries and independent art spaces. Around Anfu Road and Wukang Road, besides Capsule, you can find Chapter6 (No. 6, Lane 228 Anfu Rd 安福路228弄6号), E.Scape (No. 3, Lane 40 Wukang Rd 武康路40弄3号) and the Instituto Cervantes (208 Anfu Rd 安福路208号). On Wuyuan Road, there's Linseed (No.4, Lane 165 Wuyuan Rd 五原路165弄4号), and on Yongfu Road, Jenxuan Gallery (47 Yongfu Rd 永福路47号). They're all within walking distance of one another, making for a lovely Saturday art walk around the neighborhood.

A Neighborhood Through the Eyes of an Art Insider
Dong Jun

Enrico opened Capsule in 2016, a contemporary art gallery tucked into a lane on Anfu Road just a short walk from home.

CNS: Each person may have different tastes, but they all want a great cafe. What's your favorite cafe near home?

Sunflour (Unit103-104, 308 Anfu Rd 安福路308号103-104室) is probably the place I've been going to most consistently over the years. It's been around for a long time, and that's precisely part of what I like about it. I can go there for coffee, breakfast or something simple during the day. It has become one of those places I associate with my everyday routine in the neighborhood.

A Neighborhood Through the Eyes of an Art Insider
Yang Di

Sunflour has become one of those places Enrico associates with him everyday routine in the neighborhood.

CNS: Where should someone eat around here?

Mr Willis (3/F, 195 Anfu Rd 安福路195号3楼) is one of those places I keep returning to. It has been part of the neighborhood for years and has a relaxed atmosphere, so it works equally well for dinner with friends, a business lunch or simply when you want somewhere familiar and uncomplicated. Their roast chicken is the best in town!

I also like Mi Mian Hui Xin (2/F, 98 Wukang Rd 武康路98号2层) when I'm in the mood for something local and simple, or some dim sum. They're quite different from one another, but that's part of what I enjoy about living here: within a small area, you can find completely different kinds of places that gradually become part of your routine.

For a fun, cozy evening – especially in summer, when you can sit outside – I also really like the atmosphere at Overdose (785-2 Huashan Rd 华山路785-2号) on Huashan Road.

A Neighborhood Through the Eyes of an Art Insider
Dong Jun

Suitsupply on Anfu Road is a go-to for modern tailoring and sharp everyday style.

CNS: From high fashion to emerging designers, from flowers to fresh produce, where do you shop in your neighborhood?

I'm a regular at Suitsupply (169 Anfu Rd 安福路169号) and I enjoy buying groceries along Wulumuqi Road, where you can find almost everything – from fresh produce at Wulumuqi Market (318 Wulumuqi Rd M. 乌鲁木齐中路318号) to imported food at Avocado Lady (274 Wulumuqi Rd M.乌鲁木齐中路274号).

CNS: Is there a neighborhood place you recommend for a night out or simply a drink after work?

For a drink, I like the atmosphere at Senator Saloon (98 Wuyuan Rd 五原路98号) on Wuyuan Road and Speak Low (579 Fuxing Rd M. 复兴中路479号). I've been going to both for quite some time and still enjoy returning.

A Neighborhood Through the Eyes of an Art Insider
Dong Jun

Plusone PilaPolah combines a coffee space with a plant shop, which has quickly become a popular spot in the neighborhood.

CNS: Have you made any new discoveries in your neighborhood lately?

Our compound itself has a few local businesses that I really like: beautiful fabrics at June Wang (275-4 Anfu Rd 安福路275弄4号) and the furniture store Anfu 275 (275-6 Anfu Rd 安福路275弄6号).

More recently, Plusone PilaPolah (103-1 Wukang Rd 武康路103-1) opened very close to where I live. It combines a coffee space with a plant shop, and they have a really beautiful selection of plants. I like the idea of having the two together, and it has quickly become a popular spot in the neighborhood.

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